Yellowstone: A Wild Adventure

This spans two days of visiting Yellowstone condensed into one post.

I think nearly everyone can conjure a mental image of Yellowstone, even if they've never set foot there. You envision expansive vistas, rolling hills, grasslands dotted with bison, a boundless blue sky, and bubbling pools of steam and heat that do more than just hint at the Earth's inner fire.

After visiting Yosemite in 2023, it's impossible not to draw comparisons between the two. While Yosemite's beauty is in its dramatic verticals, towering cliffs, and deep valleys carved into California's jagged terrain, Yellowstone unfolds with a panoramic grandeur that is hard to fully grasp until you've arrived. Even then, the sheer size and breadth feel incomprehensible. Nonetheless, both places make you feel incredibly small in all the best ways, evoking a profound sense of awe and reminding us of our place in the vastness of nature.

We left the house at 6:00 am and before we were even off the dusty road from home, we spotted this majestic creature. It was going to be a good day!

Yellowstone National Park covers an expansive area of approximately 2.2 million acres, which is equivalent to about 3,472 square miles. The park sits atop a massive volcanic caldera measuring 45 miles wide. It is considered a "supervolcano" due to its potential for large-scale volcanic eruptions. Nestled in the heart of the American West, Yellowstone is a testament to the enduring spirit of conservation and the timeless allure of the natural world. Its story begins in 1872 when it became the world's first national park, a visionary act of preservation that set a precedent for safeguarding Earth's most precious landscapes.

But Yellowstone's history stretches far beyond its designation as a park. For centuries, it has been a sacred place for Indigenous peoples, who revered its geothermal wonders and abundant wildlife long before the arrival of European settlers. Their stories and traditions, woven into the fabric of the land, speak of a deep reverence for the interconnectedness of all living things.

In the late 19th century, explorers ventured into Yellowstone's wilderness, drawn by tales of boiling mud pots, erupting geysers, and untamed rivers. Their discoveries captivated the imagination of a nation awakening to the idea of conservation, prompting calls to protect this natural wonderland from exploitation and development.

Upon approaching the hydrothermal areas, visitors are greeted by the rhythmic bubbling and occasional splashes of boiling water from the small geysers, creating an atmospheric soundtrack to the experience. Mineral-rich pools that create vibrant hues of orange, yellow, milky blues, and greens stand out against the surrounding greenery. Bubbling pots of mud create a satisfying "glop," as the thick, gooey substance churns and pops while steam rises lazily from the pools, tickling the senses, especially the nose with its sulphur rich gases. The hydrothermal features at Yellowstone are powered by heat from magma chambers beneath the Earth's surface. Some of the water ejected from geysers can reach temperatures close to boiling. Every sign warns against putting any object, including yourself, into these pools. And, yet, there is some inexplicable urge to just "test it." With four kids in tow who love to throw anything in water, it was proof of the kid's sustained willpower.

The Grand Prismatic Spring is one of those must-see iconic Yellowstone sights. Images online suggest the color palette of a Fauvist painter. The spring's center is a deep cerulean blue lake. Radiating outward from the central feature, the water transitions through shades of turquoise, green, yellow, and finally, a striking reddish-orange along the edges that escape in orange tendrils.

Photo Credit: Paul Reiffer

At 7:00 am when we arrived at the spring, billowing steam rose from the surface, almost obliterating the sunrise and creating an ethereal mist that enhanced the mystical atmosphere. This scene felt unexpectedly dystopian. However, the contrast between the lavender-grey mud cracking in rivulets, stepped like a topographical map, and the slices of cinnamon orange that drew your attention, brought something almost more magical to our experience, compounded by the fact that we were virtually the only ones there.

I shot pictures in rapid fire, capturing one abstract painting after another. Frankly, I could have kept my camera attached to my eye all day at the Midway Geyser Basin, as the spring is remarkable in its ability to rapidly change and morph.

Yellowstone boasts 60% of the world's geysers. In that vein, our next stop was the famous Old Faithful. To be perfectly honest, it wasn't high on our list of sights, due to its wild popularity yet mediocre reviews of its impressiveness. En route, we had only 10 minutes of cell reception, which was just enough time for me to check www.geysertimes.org for the approximate eruption of Old Faithful. We arrived and walked from the car park at 8:00 am, giving us 27 minutes (give or take 13) to wait. My thought: You can wait for just about anything as long as you have a cup of hot chocolate in hand.

Rows of benches form a circular ring around the steaming geyser as spectators trickle in, like fans at a rock concert, to wait for the spectacle to begin. A half-hour is just enough time for the phenomenon known as, "The Legacy of the Diggeseses." It's the kid's specialty - turning any dull wait, whether in line at a museum, waiting for a table in a restaurant, or well...waiting for a geyser to erupt, into a whirlwind of entertainment. Dubbed by Liam, he'll state definitively, 'It's time for the Legacy of the Diggeseses," in his booming, and slightly aloof British accent. The kids find pride in the fact that they can invent, organize, and implement any game to occupy themselves. Anytime. Anywhere. Regardless of the environment. This wait, in particular, took panoramas to a whole new level.

Speaking of invention, early Yellowstone settlers didn't just marvel at geysers — they put them to work! They figured out the perfect intervals between eruptions and turned their steamy natural wonders into impromptu laundry machines. Picture it: socks and shirts draped strategically over the geysers, cooking up a fresh batch of clean clothes in just minutes. The geysers sent clothes flying hundreds of feet into the air. When they went around to collect them, they were indeed sparkling clean. But, as with all great experiments, there were some hiccups along the way. Cotton garments emerged dazzlingly pristine, but poor woolen sweaters? Let's just say they got a little too much love and came out looking more like shredded confetti than cozy attire.

Unfortunately, the park's resident bison haven't quite mastered the art of timekeeping. Every year, like clockwork (well, sort of), at least two unsuspecting bison become unwitting casualties of their own curiosity, getting a bit too cozy with a geyser during mealtime.

I have to say I expected to be underwhelmed by Old Faithful. But, I was proven wrong.

When the time came, within five minutes of the estimated time, billowing steam turned to spitting water, bubbling and hissing like a faulty water fountain, prompting onlookers to pause their conversation and break out their cameras. And, then she burst! What a remarkable spectacle to witness. Beyond its visual appeal, the natural phenomenon is equally captivating, revealing the inner workings of the Earth.

Up next: Yellowstone Canyon. A geological marvel that carves its way through rugged land, the canyon reaches its greatest depth of approximately 1,200 feet near the Lower Falls. The canyon walls, sculpted over millennia by the erosive power of the Yellowstone River and its three waterfalls, reveal layers of vibrant colors—rich hues of yellow, orange, and red, interspersed with streaks of white and gray. These colors are a testament to the park's volcanic past and the mineral-rich rocks that make up its walls.

The power and force of the water (or maybe just the constant driving) put us in a contemplative mood, "zen-ing out" and watching the approximate 6,000 gallons of water per second flow over the edge of the Brink of the Upper Falls. To see power up close and personal like that, especially after rafting what now seems like dinky Class 3 rapids, is both terrifying and awe-inspiring.

When Liam and Quinn have their band, this will be their cover shot.

At Tower Falls, we hit the brakes for what seemed like the Everest of ice cream scoops. Liam's jaw hit the floor when he got handed his mammoth dessert. Now, Liam's known as our human garbage disposal, always eyeing everyone else's plates like a seagull eyeing your beach fries. But when the server said, "Oops, sorry. That's not enough. Here's another scoop," even Liam looked aghast. He still managed to eat it though!

A short drive to the next view at Artists Paintpoint offers a panoramic vista of the Lower Falls. A powerful cascade of water plunges into the depths, framed by towering cliffs adorned with colorful layers of rock that immediately brought me back to 1998 when my girlfriends from college drove from Georgia to Arizona, camping out at the edge of the Grand Canyon for a southwestern experience.

And, then there is the pièce de résistance....Lamar Valley is the most picturesque expanse of Yellowstone. Imagine a vast, open landscape, framed by rolling hills and the distant peaks of the Absaroka Range. The valley floor itself is a mosaic of lush meadows, winding rivers, and pockets of dense forest, all teeming with wildlife. It's renowned for its abundant population of diverse species, including iconic Yellowstone residents like bison, elk, grizzly bears, and wolves. It is one of the few remaining places in the contiguous United States where all these species still exist in their natural habitats.

These animals roam freely across the valley, offering observers a glimpse into their natural behaviors in a pristine and untouched habitat. It makes me want to go back in time to see the entirety of the United States in its purest form: Without the influence of humans. It must have been a sight to behold.

Wildlife here have no fear of humans. Why would they? They're the most spoiled "specimens" on the planet. No, not that kind of specimen, Liam. Wildlife in Lamar Valley fear humans as much as a cat fears being alone —meaning not at all! They strut around like they own the place, demanding right of way at every turn. Bison hold up traffic, casually munching on grass like it’s enjoying a five-star meal muttering, "You're on my timetable now, human."

It’s their world; we’re just living in it, hoping they’ll grace us with their majestic presence while we sit in our cars, pondering if they’ll ever let us pass. Who knew crossing the road could be such a power move? They're not just wildlife; they’re roadblock royalty, and we’re all just stuck in their slow-motion parade.

Here was the plan to keep kids alert throughout our drive: Each person who spotted an animal got a point, depending on the animal sighting.

Deer: 1

Elk: 3

Coyote: 3

Bison: 5

Eagle: 7

Bear: 9

We were practically within arm's reach of the wildlife—well, except for the bear (credit to Brittany Digges for that epic shot). Liam, with his uncanny knack for spotting coyotes amidst endless scrubby brush, suddenly exclaimed, "Coyote!" How he manages to spot them remains a mystery to me. We slowed to a crawl. It was like a scene straight out of Planet Earth. The coyotes were on the hunt and... well, let me hand it over to our resident David Attenborough. Click below for the full narration.

Coyotes On the Huntby Liam Digges

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And then there were the bison. What started as a generous 5 points per bison quickly turned into negative points as they multiplied like pigeons in the city. Holding court right along the road, it seemed they were having a spontaneous conference, discussing the latest gossip in bison society.

Back in the car after a quick snapped shot at Mammoth Hot Springs, we continued the Yellowstone road. In the heat of the afternoon, the allure of the boardwalk's 1-mile loop felt more like a chore than a delight which signaled to us that our day was coming to a close.

One more stop before we headed back to Henry's Lake. As we rounded the bend, the Norris Geyser Basin came into view. Steam billowed from the landscape, immediately capturing our attention as we stepped out of the car. Like eager detectives on a trail, we followed the signs to the source: Steamboat Geyser, famously dubbed "Old Unpredictable." This geyser means business! Its thunderous roar echoed through the basin, resembling a giant firehose unleashing a torrent of liquid power.

According to the sign, Steamboat Geyser erupted at 3:00 pm and was still going strong at 7:00 pm. The reservoir under the earth's surface must be absolutely massive!

By this point, we were all a little punch-drunk, the kids launching a barrage of corny animal jokes that had my exhausted brain both groaning and giggling. "What do you call an Elk that drinks too much? An Elkoholic." and "What do you call an Elephant who loves soda? An Elefanta." As the sun dipped below the horizon, it brought with it the cool evening air, offering a welcome sense of relief.

We rolled along the narrow road toward Henry's Lake. Our last-ditch efforts to spot one more animal became almost hypnotic as the trees cast shadows that hinted at what roamed inside the forest. Eventually, we settled into a quiet calm, the gentle sway and rhythm of the car lulled some of us into sleep as we made our way back to Henry's Lake.

I feel immensely grateful for the chance to witness Yellowstone's breathtaking sights firsthand. It's a place where the Earth's raw power and beauty converge in ways that leave you feeling a deep connection to the planet and a sense of humility in the face of its grandeur. Yellowstone is a reminder of the importance of preserving our natural heritage.